Ferry Across the Adriatic
We took an overnight ferry from Bari, Italy to Dürres, Albania. It served as both transportation and accommodation for under $160 for my wife and me. We did our research, and the reviews were either one star or five stars. Now I know why.
The boarding process couldn’t have been easier.
Our taxi driver dropped us off right in front of the terminal, and after a brief wait in the surprisingly nice waiting area, we went through light security and hopped on a shuttle to our boat on the other side of the dock.
Even though we didn’t have a car, we had to enter the ship through the vehicle loading area. They asked us to leave our luggage off to the side overnight, but we declined.
It didn’t take long to realize we’d made things more difficult for ourselves. Watertight doors don’t reach all the way to the deck. You have to step up and over the sill, which means we had to lift our luggage whenever we encountered one. To make matters worse the elevator was turned off until we set sail.
After lugging our suitcases up a few flights of stairs to the check-in counter, we felt much better. The pictures online made it look like a cruise ship, and there were plenty of spaces that felt luxurious. Since it was the off-season, it was easy to find a spot on the main deck and have a drink or two before bedtime.
I asked the guy at the bar for a good Albanian raki, only to have him tell me they could substitute it with grappa. They clearly weren’t Albanian. I settled for the cheapest wine they had.
Once we left port, we braved the cold and went outside with a handful of others to say goodbye to Bari. We were freezing, but it was worth it for the view.
After warming up inside, it was time to head down to our cabin. This is where the one-star reviews come from. The pictures online made it look like a spacious suite, but it was barely bigger than a king-size bed. There was a tiny bathroom with a corner shower that looked like it hadn’t been maintained in years. I didn’t want to shower because I wasn’t sure I’d be any cleaner afterward.
Make no mistake, this is a transport ship. It rocks and creaks, and the whole room shakes with the loud rumble of the engines. Throughout the night, we had to remind ourselves that we chose this to save money, not to have a posh experience.
We did manage to get some sleep, and before we knew it, it was time to disembark. After living in Dürres for three months, it felt like coming home. We went straight to the luggage storage place next to where we used to live, then headed to our favorite coffee shop. Then it was time to stop by and visit all the friends we had made last time we were here.
Less than a year into our nomad lifestyle, we’ve traveled by plane, train, tram, metro, and now boat. The only mode of transportation we haven’t tried yet is a hot air balloon. Next stop: hot air balloons in Turkey!
Check out last week’s post: